Between Rain and Sun: A Gentle Journey to Yahiko Shrine in Niigata

🌧☀️ Between Rain and Sun: A Journey from Akita to Niigata and the Sacred Grounds of Yahiko Shrine

We drove from Akita to Niigata, changing highways along the way—about five and a half hours in total.
The weather forecast had promised “cloudy then sunny,” but as we approached Niigata, small drops of rain began to fall.

🚗 A Glimpse of Mount Yahiko Through the Rain

Through the car’s windshield, I caught sight of what was probably Mount Yahiko, faint in the misty rain.

🌦 Arriving in the Rain, Stepping Out into Sunshine

When we arrived at the parking lot of our lodging, Minoya, it was still raining.
But after checking in and stepping outside again, the sky had completely cleared.

It felt almost as if we were being gently guided.

🍱 Lunch at Yamabōshi

Before visiting Yahiko Shrine—located right in front of Minoya—we decided to have lunch.

The weather had turned beautifully sunny, and we waited outside for about an hour.

The wappa-meshi topped generously with salmon roe, the pickled dishes including bitter melon, and the seasonal fruit were all delicious.
The staff were warm and friendly, and I could see why the place was so popular.

⛩ Walking the Approach to Yahiko Shrine

Passing through the torii gate, we entered the shrine’s approach.
The fresh air and vivid greenery were striking.

I was so glad the weather had cleared.

🚡 Yahiko Mountain Ropeway and the View from the Summit

After our visit and receiving a goshuin, we took the ropeway up to the summit.

🌊 Sado Island from Above

From the top, we could see Sado Island.

The boundary between sky and sea was breathtaking, and we couldn’t resist buying soft-serve ice cream and shaved ice.

There’s something about islands that sparks a sense of excitement.

🌇 Evening at Minoya

We returned to the inn early in the evening and bought souvenirs at the shop.
It turns out that booking online comes with a 2,000-yen voucher for the gift shop—something I didn’t know, but was delighted to discover.

🏨 Retro-Modern Room in the Roman Wing

Our room was the “Retro-Modern Japanese Room (14.5 tatami)” in the Roman Wing.
Walking through the corridor felt like stepping back in time.

The room had retro touches as well.

Despite its nostalgic look, the radio worked perfectly, which surprised me.

Before dinner, we enjoyed a beer and a chuhai while looking out the still-bright window.

🍂 Tsuki Kaiseki Dinner: Tasting the Blessings of Autumn

The Tsuki Kaiseki dinner had so many dishes that I couldn’t finish everything, though my husband did.

Everything was delicious, and I was completely full.

The standout dish for me was the awabi (abalone) grilled in hōsho paper.

And then—after already being full—came freshly harvested Iyahiko rice, miso soup, and matsutake chawanmushi.

Even as someone from Akita, where good rice is part of daily life, I was amazed by how delicious the new crop of Iyahiko rice was.

Dessert was pudding, which was wonderful, but I had to leave a little of it…
If I were three years younger, I might have managed it.

❄️ Why We Chose the Tsuki Kaiseki Instead of the Yuki Kaiseki

I originally wanted to try nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), but instead of choosing the Yuki Kaiseki, which includes grilled nodoguro, we went with the Tsuki Kaiseki.

We plan to buy nodoguro in Teradomari and enjoy it at home with our family.

The Tsuki Kaiseki had many dishes, all delicious, and I can truly recommend it.