This year, we’re once again making miso in our Akita sugi (Japanese cedar) barrel.
We welcomed this barrel two years ago from Kutsuzawa Lumber, a local craftsman in Akita.
That year, we made miso in both a ceramic crock and the cedar barrel, and opened them last autumn.
Both batches turned out delicious, but the crock had a more balanced flavor—likely because it had been used for many years, while the cedar barrel was still in its first year.
Now, after washing and sun-drying the barrel, we’re preparing for its second year of fermentation.
In the first year, the aroma of the cedar was still strong, and the microbes living in the wood were probably still adjusting to their new environment.
But by the second year, the beneficial microbes—koji molds, lactic acid bacteria, and others—begin to settle into the wood and work more harmoniously.
This is one of the unique characteristics of traditional Japanese wooden barrels.
When we poured hot water into the barrel before use,
a gentle steam rose, carrying the scent of cedar mixed with a faint trace of miso.
It felt as if the microbes were waking up.
It’s hard not to feel excited.
Ingredients
- Akita-grown soybeans — 1 kg
- Organic koji from Nanatsumirai — 1 kg
- Salt — 500 g
Preparation (The Day Before)
Soak the soybeans overnight in plenty of water.
In winter, they take longer to absorb moisture, so 12–18 hours is ideal.
How to Make Miso
1. Mix the Koji and Salt
Gently break apart the koji and mix it with the salt.
Keep it light and airy—this helps it blend evenly.
2. Cook the Soybeans Until Soft
Cook the soybeans in two batches using a pressure cooker.
Heat over medium, then reduce to low for 10 minutes once the weight rises.
Let the pressure drop naturally before opening.
They’re ready when they crush easily between your fingers.
3. Mash While Hot
Mash the soybeans while still hot.
(Keep the cooking liquid—you’ll need it later.)
Warm beans mash more smoothly and result in a creamier texture.
4. Combine with the Koji
Add the salted koji to the mashed soybeans and mix thoroughly.
If the mixture feels too firm, add a little cooking liquid.
Aim for a slightly firm consistency.
5. Form Miso Balls
Shape the mixture into firm balls, pressing out any air.
This traditional step helps prevent mold during fermentation.
6. Pack into the Cedar Barrel
Place the miso balls into the barrel and press them down tightly with your fist.
Cover with plastic wrap, and press the edges down about 2–5 cm—
I used a rice paddle for this.
Then, gently smooth the surface from the center outward.
In Japanese, this step is called narasu, a quiet ritual to settle the miso into place.
The Microbes Living in the Cedar
It’s said that cedar barrels host beneficial microbes that help miso ferment beautifully.
Even among barrels, the flavor can vary depending on the specific cedar tree used.
Which microbes will we meet?
How will we care for them?
These choices shape the flavor that becomes “our family’s miso.”
Thinking about that makes each year’s miso-making even more meaningful.
If you’re curious about the cedar barrel,
it’s available from Kutsuzawa Lumber Co., Ltd.—
crafted without chemical adhesives and safe for long-term fermentation.
https://kutsuzawa-seizaisho.co.jp/
Kutsuzawa Lumber also shares their work on Instagram, where you can see their cedar barrels and traditional woodworking.
https://www.instagram.com/kutsuzawa_seizaisho
コメント